Fortune telling in the temple

Hundreds of turtles clamber over each other to escape the murky pond. The slippery rocks betray them, sending not one but dozens back into the shallow pool. The lucky ones rest in the dry heat, their dark shells cracked like eggs against their stripy yellow skin. The Chinese who maintain the temple had intended the…

An Unexpected Indian Massage

After hauling a rucksack that weighed three quarters of me, a massage seemed just the ticket. A group of us had just rattled off a small minibus that had shaken us all the way from Delhi to the northern mountains of Old Manali. We’d travelled for a full day past miles of slums with flapping…